TIMELY GARDEN TIPS FROM

OVER THE GARDEN FENCE

June 11, 2005

Years ago, we called it a "million dollar" rain. I'm sure that is far too low a figure today. Never-the-less, the rain God sent was invaluable. The needed moisture was greeted thankfully by farmers and gardeners, both now enjoying a reprieve from irrigation duties and the satisfaction of seeing crops and gardens green and growing.

Due to the recent rains, green-thumbers will notice an upsurge in not only plant growth, but also in garden weeds. As soon as surface soils dry a bit, be sure to cultivate while weeds are small, then apply Weed Impede or Miracle Gro Weed Preventer to the soil to prevent further weed growth.

During periods of adequate rainfall, it is so important to monitor irrigation systems very carefully. Over watering will destroy your plants and cost you plenty. Sprinkler systems that are timer operated and apply more water after a good rain are bound to injure bedding plants, lawns, and many trees and shrubs, especially in heavy clay soils with poor drainage. Excessive moisture often shows up similar to drought; roots lose their ability to lift moisture from the soil, thus the plant wilts and dies. Other problems, such as diseases, are multiplied when there is excessive moisture present in the soil, especially in lawns. Leaf spot, Pythium Blight, Slime Mold, Rust, and Stripe Smut will surely become a problem with over watering. What to do? We can't control the rain, but we can control irrigation schedules. Lawns and established bedding plants need one-half inch of moisture every three to four days of either rain or irrigation. Apply irrigation between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm during the summer months.

When installing irrigation systems, put lawns, gardens, and ornamental plantings on separate zones. Ornamental plantings, such as groundcover areas, shrubs, and trees will decline if they receive as much water as the lawn requires. Know how much volume your system is delivering, use a rain gauge to find out and make adjustments as necessary.

Before planting, check out the soil environment. If soil is heavy, condition with clay soil conditioner to help avoid excessive moisture problems in the future. It's a fact, poor watering practices kill more landscape plants than insects and diseases. Need more advice? Bring soil core samples to Wedel's Plant Diagnostic Center for analyzing.

Warm, moist weather means conditions are right for lawn diseases to thrive. If your lawn experienced disease problems last year, apply a deterrent now. Scotts Lawn Disease Control will both cure and prevent most turf disease problems.

Four-lined plant bugs continue to damage perennial flowers, annuals, and many shrubs. Small, round brown spots, at first a few, then many that run together, cause the leaves to contort and turn brown. Favorite plants on the four-lined plant bug menu include geraniums, caryopteris and viburnum shrubs and rhudbeckia. Control four-lined plant bugs with sprays of Pyrethrin or Orthene.

Observe juniper evergreens closely at this time. Many junipers are showing an off-color appearance, brown branch tips, and branch die back. The number one problem with junipers in many landscapes is over watering them with lawn sprinkling systems. Two or three waterings of junipers per summer is usually adequate in Southwest Michigan, any more often than this promotes Phomopsis tip blight. If your junipers show any brown tips, prune them off, spray with Halt Fungicide mixed with Spreader Sticker, fertilize now with Tree tone, and redirect the sprinkler system.

Folks with deciduous azaleas in their landscape should examine them closely today for Azalea Sawfly Larvae. These leaf-colored larvae will quickly defoliate an azalea shrub. The loss of leaves now drastically affects the number of blooms next year. Control Azalea Sawfly Larvae with one spray of Spinosad.

Rose chafers will be emerging very soon in most landscapes. In areas where rose chafers are abundant, watch for feeding on crabapple, mountain ash, roses, peonies, and a host of other flowers. Control rose chafers with a spray of 10% Permethrin.

Elm leaf beetle larvae are feeding on elm now. Control elm leaf beetles and larvae with a spray of Sevin.

Growing healthy plants is the first line of defense against insect and disease problems. Weakened or stressed plants attract a whole host of problems. Pests attack slow growing or weakened plants, which then hastens their decline. This is why regular fertilization, weed control, proper irrigation, and insect and disease controls are so important. Don't neglect your plants. Presuming that plants will take care of themselves will ultimately lead to problems. Visit valuable plants often to check on their needs. If you have questions about plant health issues, bring samples to Wedel's Diagnostic Clinic for information on how to keep your lawn, landscape, and garden healthy and well.

Fresh dug potatoes, just-picked sweet corn, sweet juicy tomatoes from your own garden. If May weather short-circuited your vegetable garden plans, there is still time to plant and have a good harvest. At Wedel's we have a good supply of short-season sweet corn, green beans and other vegetable seeds as well as potato sets, herb plants, tomatoes, and other vegetable plants. Don't miss that home-grown taste; plant some veggies today.

Let's talk now about pruning evergreens. Pruning is often a touchy subject; many gardeners feel that pruning involves some sort of mystique and is better left unmentioned and undone. Unfortunately, evergreens keep right on growing and if not pruned regularly, they soon loose ornamental value.

All too often, an evergreen with a mature spread of fifteen feet and a mature height of eight feet is planted where available space allows for a five-food spread and a height of three feet. Then, for the next decade or two, it is butchered to keep it within bounds and it adds little to the value of the landscape. The first point in discussing pruning is the suitability of the evergreen for the location. If an evergreen is destined to overgrow its location, don't prune itreplace it. Always consult with Michigan Certified Nursery Specialists for expert information on plant selection.

Juniper, yew, and arborvitae evergreens may be pruned freely. The best time is May through August. Junipers, yews, and arborvitaes that have not received proper pruning when young and now are overgrown, will survive a severe pruning, but will take two to three years to recover. Before this is done, replacement should be considered. When heavy pruning is called for, be sure to fertilize plants with Tree Tone fertilizer to encourage new growth and to achieve the desired shape.

Long-needled evergreens such as pines, spruce, and fir should be pruned in June or early July. Long-needled evergreens are normally only pruned when young so branches will be closer together and the tree will be more balanced. Never prune back beyond the current year's growth on pine, spruce or fir.

George Wedel