TIMELY GARDEN TIPS FROM

OVER THE GARDEN FENCE

May 21, 2005

Ask most anyone that lives in Michigan, year around, and they will agree that it's been colder than normal. We had a cool 2004, very cold winter, and up until now, a cooler than normal spring.

As we were waiting for more comfortable gardening weather, many rejoiced in the beauty around us and were reminded of God's generosity in Psalm 65; "He makes the dawn and sunset shout for joy, He enriches the earth with rain and blesses its growth, the pastures are green, the valleys are full of grain." And, I'll add, the dogwoods, anemonies, trilliums, redbud, tulips, and daffodils have never been more beautiful. How blessed we are!

Around here, the theory of global warming is losing believers. Global warming, or just a cool weather cycle? Regardless, gardeners can take heart. We can safely set out most tender annul plants now. Every green-thumber I know has gardening options galore! Weeding, seeding, planting, pruning, feeding, mowing, and more; all these things make a delightful plate full.

This morning, let's take a look "Over the Garden Fence" to explore some of those options.

First, let's talk about what should be done with our once-beautiful beds of tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths where we plan to set out annual plants. After spring flowering bulbs have faded, snip off the dead flowers so they won't go to seed, but let the green foliage die back naturally, a process that takes several weeks. An exception to this rule is daffodils, which do not require dead heading.

The four to five weeks after bulbs bloom is a critical work period for leaves busy with photosynthesis, which is the process by which leaves combine chlorophyll and sunshine into the starches that recharge the bulb with food for the next year's bloom. Be sure to foliar feed bulb plantings during this time with Bloom Booster water-soluble fertilizer.

If dying foliage seems unattractive, the best solution is camouflage. Next autumn, interplant bulbs with hosta or pansy plants. They will grow up and around fading bulb plants and disguise the dying foliage of the bulbs.

I have found that tulip and hyacinth bulbs deteriorate quickly if left in flowerbeds where annual flowers are planted for summer beauty. The moisture levels necessary for marigolds, petunias, impatiens, and their friends is deadly for dormant flower bulbs. If your plans include summer annuals in bulb beds, dig up bulb plants when ripe, dry, cut off tops, put in onion bags, and hang in a well-ventilated garage or garden shed. They may then be replanted in the autumn.

Minor bulbs, such as scilla, crocus, and grape hyacinths, are usually planted where they can be left in the ground over the summer. Be sure to allow foliage on scilla, crocus, grape hyacinths, and other minor bulbs to ripen completely before cutting off.

Now that we have taken care of our tulip plantings and the so-called "frost-free" date for our area is past, planting can begin. But wait! To realize the flowers and vegetable plantings of our dreams, there is pre-planting soil conditioning that should be done. Don't plant your bedding plants and seeds into unprepared soil. Flower and vegetable yields are multiplied greatly with proper soil conditioning. As needed, incorporate to the depth of four inches in planting beds sphagnum peat moss, perlite, composted cow manure, ground limestone, clay soil conditioner, gypsum and Plant Tone.

Don't know what soil conditioners your garden soil needs? Bring one or two soil samples to Wedel's Garden Center or to the local MSU Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Conditioning planting beds prior to planting annual flower and vegetables will help gardeners realize the abundant blooms and harvest we all desire.

Be very choosy about the bedding plants you buy. When selecting annual flowering bedding plants, look for young plants that are actively growing. These will root in the best. Tall, lanky plants never perform as well as short, stocky ones. Blooming petunias, zinnias, snapdragons, and many other bedding plants should have their flowers picked off at planting time to help encourage them to develop fuller, more bushy plants and a stronger root system which, in turn, will produce more blooms during the summer.

When planting bedding plants, be sure to feed them with Nursery Select Starter food. Then feed with water-soluble Nursery Select Growth Food every two weeks throughout the summer. Nursery select plant foods are professional grade fertilizers with an impressive list of trace minerals to assure excellent growth, flower color, and overall outstanding results.

Recent rains have our lawns growing very rapidly. It is important that they be mowed at the proper time. Often, we set a schedule of mowing the lawn once a week or when it's convenient. In the spring, that is usually not enough, especially during moist weather periods. It is important never to cut off more than one-third of the height of the grass blade. In case of rain, or a schedule that does not allow mowing when the lawn requires it, be sure to raise the mower height so that you don't scalp the turf. Removal of too much of the grass blade at one time will put the turf under a great deal of stress and make it more susceptible to disease and weed invasion. The ideal is to mow when the lawn requires it; current weather dictates mowing every five days.

Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelion and buckhorn, are growing very fast in many lawns. So are some previously difficult-to-control broadleaf weeds like veronica and wild violets. Fortunately for lawn enthusiasts, we now have Weed Free Zone that will rid lawns of every type of broadleaf weed without harming the grass. No need to buy two or three types of weed killers, Weed Free Zone controls them all.

The need to care for valuable dogwood trees in our landscape has never been greater. Anthracnose disease is very wide spread in Southwestern Michigan and is moving into new areas rapidly. Dead branch tips are often the first signs of Dogwood Anthracnose infection. Plants in deep shade are the most vulnerable; in native unprotected areas, most trees are killed.

The following care tips will help keep your dogwood healthy. Provide a wind-protected environment. Prune nearby trees so dogwoods receive at least one-half day of sun exposure. Remove water sprouts promptly from trunk. Prune out dead branches and twigs if they are present. Always use pruning paint to cover wounds. Be sure to destroy all prunings. Spray valuable dogwood trees with Halt Systemic Fungicide after rainy periods, most importantly from May 1st through June 15th. From August 1st through the end of September, spray dogwood trees every two weeks with Maneb Fungicide. Do not get foliage wet when irrigating dogwoods. Encourage dogwoods with yearly feedings of Holly Tone fertilizer, keep competitive grass clear of root zone, mulch with two inches of cedar or fir wood chips to the drip line, and water during summer dry spells.

To improve the health and appearance of landscape trees and ornamentals requires a balanced fertilization program. In the forest and other natural environments, the decomposition of leaves and other organic material provides a natural nutrient source for the plants. The urban landscape does not have this natural source of nutrients and is often void of organic matter because the natural topsoil was removed. Poor soil is unable to maintain good healthy growth and may result in nutrient deficiencies. Thus, we are forced to provide nutrients through a fertilization program. A proper fertilization program will not only improve the health and appearance of the plants, but can reduce the amount of damage from insects, disease, and physical stresses. This should reduce pesticide usage and plant replacements.

The fertilizer blends you select are extremely critical for a healthy program. Many fertilizers on the market contain high levels of salt, chlorine, and insoluble materials. These types of fertilizers were not designed for tree and ornamental fertilization, but rather for agricultural crops or turf, which can tolerate these toxins.

I recommend feeding shade trees with Tree Tone and ornamental trees with Plant Tone once every year. The proper feeding of landscape trees is important to their health and appearance. Don't neglect your valuable trees, they are much easier to keep healthy than to replace.

Customers at the garden center often ask us how to improve their clematis vines and encourage them to bloom more. The following is our formula for great clematis.

Every April, feed clematis vines with one-half cup Sulfate of Potash and ten pounds of composted cow manure. Clematis vines are heavy feeders and appreciate frequent feeding of water-soluble Nursery Select high potash plant food. Plants should receive one gallon of liquid Nursery Select every two weeks April through August. In July, feed another one-half cup of potash.

From April through September, a clematis vine requires at least four gallons of water per week. Mulch clematis vines with two inches of cocoa hulls to keep root zone cool and moist. Be sure to keep mulch four inches away from stem and crown.

Spray clematis vines with Halt Fungicide to prevent wilt disease. Younger vines are most susceptible to the wilt. Spray with Halt every two weeks in April and May, then once a month June through September. In September, fertilize with one-half cup bone meal and fifteen pounds of composted cow manure around each vine.

Clematis require a sturdy, supporting trellis, fence, or arbor that is anchored well. Clematis need at least one-third day of sun to bloom well. Clematis prefer a soil pH of 6.5 to 7. This formula will reward any gardener with arbors and trellises filled with beautiful clematis blooms.

In addition to their flower and vegetable gardens, many gardeners have a berry patch. Growing berries in the landscape is becoming more and more popular because recently, health experts have encouraged us to eat more berries for good health and a taste treat that can't be beat. Now would be a great time to set out strawberry, blueberry, current, gooseberry, and raspberry plants. Planting this spring will assure you of fresh fruit from your own back yard next spring.

Be aware that tick season has begun. Outdoor enthusiasts of all types are encountering ticks in parks, woods, fields, and gardens. Deer ticks that were once rare to Southwest Michigan have joined the plentiful dog tick, latching themselves to us and our pets. Ticks have been known to transmit Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. When working or playing in tick-infested areas, protect your family and self by using insect repellents and wear pants tucked into socks then secure with a rubber band. Rid lawn, garden and landscaped areas of ticks with sprays of 38% Permethrin or spread granular Deltamethrin. 38% Permethrin and Deltamethrin will give several weeks of protection from ticks, ants, fleas, and other pesky unwanted guests.